
Fishkeeping Questions
Where do I start?
Fresh or Salt?
We recommend starting with freshwater, but the decision is yours. Freshwater animals can handle a wider range of environmental conditions since their natural environments can change dramatically over the seasons. They’re also generally less expensive than saltwater animals. Plus, if you’re ultimately hoping to keep corals, caring for freshwater plants can be good practice for keeping a reef tank.
Big or Small?
If you’re not certain you’re really interested in keeping a tank, you might want to start small to keep the cost down. Another option might be to base the size of your tank on the space you have available. A third approach is to decide what animal(s) you want to keep and build the tank around their needs. Keep in mind: the smaller the tank, the harder it can be to keep the water parameters stable.
Where should I put my tank?
Water is heavy (about 10lbs per gallon) and so is glass. Some materials can also be damaged by water that might spill during setup or maintenance. Not to mention the risks of an unlevel surface. For tanks over 30 gallons, we recommend a stand built specifically for holding an aquarium. Regardless of what you choose, make sure it’s waterproof, strong, and level. You will also want to avoid placing a tank near windows, AC, or heating elements, and you may also want to avoid places where the tank will receive natural sunlight.
How long before I can add fish?
Most of the filtration that keeps your aquarium habitable for animals is done by bacteria. If you’re starting with a new filter, you’ll need to introduce some and give them the time and nutrients to grow before they can handle a fish. We recommend using a starter culture and feeding the tank as if you already have fish for a week or two before adding any animals. If you want to be certain your tank is ready (or just want to see what's going on in there) you can always bring us a water sample and let us check it for you.
First Time Fishkeeper Questions
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We recommend floating the bag your animal came home in inside the tank for 30 minutes to equalize the temperature. Most of the time, that’s all you need. If you have a sensitive animal or you want to be extra careful, you can open the bag and add some water from the tank a little at a time to acclimate them to the chemistry of your tank too. Shutting the lights off for the first day can help as well.
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Not as much as you think, and probably less than the instructions on the fish food. A fish’s stomach is often about the same size as their own eye, and their metabolism isn’t nearly as high as a warm-blooded animal that has to heat their own body. A pinch every day or two should be enough. Never feed more than once a day.
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In freshwater, the rule of thumb is one inch of fish per gallon of water… assuming all other requirements are met, of course. A 6-inch-long fish won’t do too well in a 6-gallon tank! In saltwater, one small-to-medium sized fish per 10 gallons is the rule. There are some exceptions: goldfish are notoriously messy, while invertebrates like shrimp and snails produce much less waste than their spine-sporting tankmates.
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That depends on what type of fish you want to keep! Paradise fish and Medakas can handle room-temperature tanks all year long, and some fish can even spend the winter outside. Most of the animals we sell will need a heater, but if you would prefer not to run one, we can help you find an animal that will work for you.
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Theoretically, no, but if it’s your first time keeping an aquarium, you will probably want one. Filterless tanks are the hardest to keep clean and healthy, and are rarely worth the risk involved. Luckily there are a huge variety of filters of all different sizes, price points, and noise levels, so we can help figure out what works best for you.
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If your tap water has chlorine in it, yes. Water conditioner (sometimes called dechlorinator) neutralizes the chlorine that keeps bacteria and algae out of our drinking water, but can also kill filter bacteria and cause chemical burns in fish. If you’re not sure whether or not there’s chlorine in your water we can check it, but it doesn’t hurt to use a water conditioner anyway.
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The only place worse than a bowl for a Goldfish is the floor. They can get up to 9 inches long in an aquarium (and even bigger if they get loose) and produce an abnormally high amount of waste for an animal their size. While Bettas can handle tight spaces a bit better, they’re very prone to fin rot and small tanks with low filtration are notoriously difficult to keep clean.
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Nope! “Tropical” refers to the regions just north and south of the equator. These parts of the world are typically warm all year long, so animals that originate from there will need their tanks kept warm with a heater, regardless of if they come from fresh– or saltwater.
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Regular water changes (removing some of the water and replacing it with clean, dechlorinated water) are the most important part of tank maintenance. We recommend changing ¼–⅓ of the water every week or two, especially for new fishkeepers. There are a variety of tools you can use to clean algae as it develops, as well as animals who will clean it for you. NEVER use soap to clean anything in an aquarium.
Intermediate Fishkeeper Questions
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Not necessarily, but it has its benefits. Not only do planting substrates have nutrients for feeding your plants, they also have pH buffers that prevent your tank from getting too acidic. That being said, you can always mix a planting substrate with a neutral gravel if you want to spread it a bit farther.
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Only a few ground-cover plants actually need Co2, but it can be useful to keep algae levels down in a brightly lit tank. If you do install a Co2 system, make sure you turn it off at night (or use a device that turns it off for you) to prevent your tank from running out of oxygen.
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Probably not! UV sterilizers can prevent the spread of certain diseases among fish, but can also inhibit the function of many medications. They’re also commonly used to treat algae growth, but there are usually other, less expensive ways of dealing with algae.
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Reverse Osmosis or RO water is water that has been specially purified to remove as many chemical, mineral, and biological substances as possible. Aquatic animals almost never exist in these types of conditions naturally. Fishkeepers primarily use RO water in the event that their tap water is poor quality, or if they’re trying to start a saltwater mixture from as clean a slate as possible. In our area, we find our tap water conditions to be comparable to most DIY RO systems, with the addition of a small amount of chlorine to prevent bacteria or algae growth.
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Well, for starters, there’s salt in it. There’s also a lot of other dissolved minerals, so you’ll want to use a salt mix developed specifically for marine aquarium use. In addition, saltwater filters often involve a type of anaerobic bacteria that live inside dead coral skeleton, which we call live rock. Also, because marine animals are much more sensitive to water conditions, you should only keep one small-to-medium sized fish per 10 gallons.
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We recommend at least a 20 Gallon Long tank for a single adult Axolotl, with a sponge filter to keep the water clean without producing a strong flow. Axolotls larger than 6” can live on fine sand or humate substrate, but smaller individuals should be kept on a bare bottom tank. Never keep an Axolotl on gravel, or with any stones smaller than their head. We strongly discourage keeping Axolotls with other animals, keeping young Axolotls together, or keeping two Axolotls of significantly different sizes. You should also keep a close watch on the temperature of the tank, and have a way to keep the water under 75°F/23°C (see below)
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The most important thing to remember about cooling an aquarium (or making any other changes to the water parameters) is that consistency and slow change are better than rapid changes or fluctuations. Dropping an ice pack in a hot tank will cool it fast (possibly too fast), but once it’s melted, the tank will heat back up, and you’ll be worse off than before. We recommend letting a fan blow over the surface of the water. This will bring the temperature down slowly and keep it down. You could also use an aquarium chiller, but by the time that’s necessary, you wont be asking us for advice.
About the Store
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We have a 15-day health guarantee on all of our freshwater fish. If you lose a fish within that period, bring us the body, a separate sample of water from the tank it was in, and a copy of the receipt. If we don’t see signs of injury from another animal or problems with the water, we can get you a new fish or store credit. We don’t guarantee saltwater fish due to their high sensitivity, and we don’t guarantee invertebrates due to the difficulties identifying and treating illnesses in them.
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We honor all manufacturer warranties, so bring a copy of your receipt along with the equipment in question. We’ll double check that the problem isn’t one that we can solve in the store, and get you a new item or a refund if necessary.
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If you need to rehome an animal, we will always take in orphans. You can transport them in whatever way you feel comfortable, but we ask that you bring them at least an hour ahead of closing so we can get them acclimated. We don’t sell used equipment or tanks, but there are plenty of places online where you can list them for sale or donation.
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We stay away from special orders in livestock because we cannot guarantee when a particular item will be available, whether or not it will be shipped, and whether or not it will be healthy when it arrives. We also don't want to get stuck with a large and/or expensive animal we can't sell or return if someone changes their mind or forgets it. You can always ask about a particular plant or animal. If it's something we feel we can sell, and we can get it, we'll try to get it in when we can. Keep checking back.
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We sell fully aquatic amphibians such as African Dwarf Frogs and Axolotls, and occasionally semi-terrestrial animals such as Mudskippers and certain crabs. Outside of that, we have no reptiles, amphibians, insects, birds, or mammals for sale.
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Everything we sell is intended for ornamental use in an aquarium (or pond in a few select cases). We do not sell anything intentionally as a food item, even though many of the animals we sell are used for food in the countries they are native to.
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Some of the information around equipment was outdated (we no longer sell undergravel filters or non-LED lights, for example), some of the language was easy to misunderstand, and much of the site was difficult to navigate. We did save all the old info before updating the website, and it can be viewed over here. It has been organized based on the old website layout, but not edited for content.

